The Golden Tooth, a pub and restaurant on Green Lanes in north London, has arrived with remarkable confidence and polish. Chef Matthew Scott and wine merchant Charlie Carr, previously behind the beloved but scrappy Papi in London Fields, have created a dining destination that belies its humble billing as merely a pub that does food. The menu, presented on a single sheet in a businesslike font, features dishes such as Hereford wing-rib with smoked bone marrow bordelaise, hogget chops with hot mint and grilled radicchio, and lardy cake with Baron Bigod and mountain tea syrup.
Chef Matthew Scott's Culinary Evolution
Scott, known for his earlier Hot 4 U pop-up era with playful creations like garum Pom-Bears and foie gras mini Magnums, has matured significantly. At Papi, his style was scrappy and chaotic yet never pompous, with a penchant for random tangents. Now, at the Golden Tooth, he serves food with cool, clear, adult direction. The music playlist, dating narrowly from 1983 to 1986—soft rock bangers and Pet Shop Boys—sets the tone for a refined yet unpretentious experience.
Standout Dishes: Cheddar Tart and Stargazy Pie
The Montgomery cheddar tart is a revelation: tall, quivering, eggy, creamy, and rich, piled high with grated cheese and topped with a foamy walnut and onion soubise. It alone makes the Golden Tooth destination dining. Another highlight is the stargazy pie for two, with an enormous red prawn head peeking out of the pastry. The pie is mustardy, creamy, stuffed with shredded chicken and red prawns, and served with homemade chips and wild garlic aioli. The bread and Bovril butter, which resembles a sticky malt loaf, and the wild sea bass crudo with citrus and lovage oil also impress.
Desserts and Wine List
Desserts include a honeymoon melon sorbet and mint choc chip ice-cream, but the lardy cake—plump, glossy, with Baron Bigod cheese and honey—is a standout. The sunflower seed frangipane, with al dente rhubarb and creme fraiche, offers a rustic yet decadent alternative. The wine list, curated by Carr, focuses on low-intervention, micro-producer bottles with a strong showing of English wines. For ale drinkers, the mussel toast or cheddar tart pairs beautifully.
Practical Information
The Golden Tooth is located at 79 Green Lanes, London N16. It is open for lunch Friday and Saturday from noon to 3pm, Sunday from noon to 5pm; dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 6 to 10pm. The bar is open Monday to Thursday from 5 to 11pm, Friday and Saturday from noon to midnight, and Sunday from noon to 10pm. Prices are about £50 per head à la carte, plus drinks and service. According to the review, the restaurant has appeared fully formed and with huge swagger, and booking a table is advisable.
