Thai House: A Pioneer of Southeast Asian Flavors
Charlie Boonprasert and Tutu Navachai arrived in Fairbanks in the 1980s, initially working at a gold lease. They found a small Thai community craving home-style food, so in 1989 they opened Thai House as a modest downtown eatery. Today, Boonprasert's wife Laong runs the restaurant, serving gai yang, tom yum kung, and pad thai, adapted from northern Thai recipes with milder spice.
Fairbanks: An Unexpected Food Mecca
Home to 31,000 people (excluding military personnel), Fairbanks is six hours inland from Anchorage, known as a gateway to the Arctic and northern lights hotspot. Yet it boasts an eclectic food scene: crepes, empanadas, tacos, ramen, barbecue, Cuban, Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, and one of the few Moldovan restaurants in the US. Geography plays a role—big corporations avoid high transport costs, allowing independent family-owned restaurants to thrive. A diverse migration population, drawn by Alaska's boom economies, has brought global flavors.
Lemongrass Thai: Adapting to Alaskan Challenges
Navachai opened Lemongrass Thai in 1996 on the other side of town, now run with his two sons. Finding ingredients is challenging; they stock up during trips to Thailand, often in winter when hours are reduced. Natt Navachai says, “We bring back herbs, utensils, and a yellow curry powder from Chiang Mai. US customs always stops me.” Early supplies came from Carl's Foodland, later replaced by Co-op Market Grocery & Deli. Lemongrass now uses locally-grown vegetables from Ann's Greenhouses, taking advantage of 70 days of midnight sun. They fuse Alaskan seafood into dishes like chu chee scallops.
Drive-Thru Thai Huts and Coffee Culture
Drive-thru Thai huts have emerged due to chain migration, with friends and relatives opening their own spots. Fairbanks is also known for coffee huts serving espresso year-round. Hong Kong-born Jenny Tse founded Sipping Streams Tea Company in 2009 after a trip to China. Her award-winning blends attract video gamers and cosplayers seeking a calm alternative to coffee. The company works with a hydroponic greenhouse and sends tea to elder groups across Alaska as part of a food sustainability program.
Soba: Alaska's Only Moldovan Restaurant
Alla and Stanislav Gutsul opened Soba, the only Moldovan restaurant in Alaska, after Stanislav's summer student experience in 2007. Alla recalls the first winter hit minus 50°F. In 2016, they launched the Acasa food truck out of nostalgia, followed by a brick-and-mortar restaurant in 2018. During the pandemic, regulars overpaid for takeout to support them. They import traditional clay pots and spices from Europe. Alla notes, “We had grown up right under their eyes, and the community wanted us to survive.” After returning to Los Angeles, the author found no Moldovan restaurants in the metropolis of 3.8 million, highlighting Fairbanks' unique culinary diversity.
