In the heart of Canberra, a unique culinary story has been unfolding since 2017, one that transcends exceptional food to become a gathering place for the city's most influential figures. Chef Hao Chen, the creative force behind acclaimed Japanese restaurant Raku on Bunda Street, is now sharing this narrative in his upcoming book, Hao's Canberra.
The Community Behind the Cuisine
Chen, who moved from Sydney to open Raku after growing up in Shanghai, has witnessed his establishment evolve into what he describes as a microcosm of Canberra's social life. The book, written alongside Canberra Times reviewer and author Chris Hansen, goes beyond featuring recipes like the restaurant's famous dragon maki rolls and kingfish with truffle ponzu dressing. It aims to highlight the real Canberra, showcasing the city's vibrant, multicultural character beyond the political sphere that typically defines the national capital.
'Canberra's dining scene is unique in Australia,' Chen writes in his book. 'Its multicultural landscape brings constant innovation, with talented chefs breathing life into the industry. Canberrans are discerning diners - curious, adventurous, and passionate about food.'
A Who's Who of Canberra Regulars
While Raku has hosted international celebrities including Nigella Lawson, Nicole Kidman, Keith Urban, Post Malone, and political figures from former prime ministers Julia Gillard and Malcolm Turnbull to current Prime Minister Anthony Albanese, Chen's book focuses on those who have become genuine friends and regular fixtures at his restaurant.
The pages of Hao's Canberra feature tennis star Nick Kyrgios, Ona Coffee owner Sasa Sestic, Nobel prize-winning astrophysicist Brian Schmidt, Canberra Airport managing director Stephen Byron, and prominent lawyer Kamy Saeedi. 'What I love most about Raku is that it's more than just a restaurant - it's a gathering place for the people of Canberra, networking, even a home,' Chen says.
He emphasizes that everyone featured in the book shares a deep connection to the city. 'They are all quietly making their own contributions to Canberra in different fields. These people have made great contributions to the past and future of this city.'
Unexpected Questions and Personal Insights
Each contributor received a unique set of questions that blended inquiries about dining at Raku with broader questions about life in Canberra and personal challenges. The responses reveal the personal connections that have formed within the restaurant's walls.
One particularly memorable answer came from Nick Kyrgios. When asked what he would advertise on Northbourne Avenue if given the chance, the tennis star responded: 'If you can win one game off me, I'll buy you as many dragon rolls as you can eat at Raku!' Chen points to this response as one of his favourites in the book.
Co-author Chris Hansen explains that the project came about unexpectedly over lunch at Raku. 'There are a few chefs that you could do this sort of book with in Canberra,' Hansen notes. 'Not many chefs have those deep connections with these sorts of people. And certainly not just politicians or diplomats.'
Despite having prominent political figures like Andrew Barr, who wrote the foreword, and Don Farrell contribute to the book, the authors consciously limited political representation to showcase the broader Canberra community.
Hao's Canberra will be released later this month and is available for pre-order at haoscanberra.com, offering readers an intimate look at how a restaurant can become the heart of a city's social fabric.
