Angela Hui Names Happy Gathering's Cheung Fun as Best Bite
Food writer and author Angela Hui has declared the silky rice noodle rolls, or cheung fun, at Happy Gathering in London's Chinatown as the best thing she has ever eaten. Speaking to The Guardian, Hui described the dish as a profound taste of home, evoking memories of her childhood in Hong Kong and family gatherings.
The Dish: Prawn and Chive Cheung Fun
The standout dish features delicate, steamed rice noodle rolls filled with fresh prawns and chives, served in a light soy-based sauce. Hui praised the texture: "The noodles are impossibly silky, almost like a cloud, and the prawns are perfectly cooked—sweet and bouncy." She noted that the dish exemplifies the skill of dim sum chefs, who must achieve the right consistency and freshness.
Happy Gathering: A Chinatown Institution
Happy Gathering, located on Gerrard Street, has been a staple of London's Chinatown for decades. Known for its traditional dim sum carts and bustling atmosphere, the restaurant attracts both locals and tourists. Hui emphasized that the cheung fun there is a benchmark for quality: "It's the first thing I order every time I visit. It never disappoints."
Personal Connection to the Dish
For Hui, the dish goes beyond taste. "Eating that cheung fun takes me back to Sunday mornings with my family in Hong Kong, crowded around a table piled high with bamboo steamers," she said. "It's comfort, it's memory, it's love on a plate." Hui, who moved to the UK as a child, often uses food to explore her cultural identity in her writing.
How to Enjoy the Dish
Hui recommends visiting Happy Gathering during peak dim sum hours (11am to 3pm) to experience the full cart service. The prawn and chive cheung fun is priced at around £6.50 per order. She suggests pairing it with a pot of jasmine tea and sharing other classics like har gow and siu mai for a complete meal.
Why This Dish Stands Out
In a city teeming with dim sum options, Hui argues that Happy Gathering's version is exceptional due to its consistency and authenticity. "Many places cut corners, but here, every component is made with care. The rice noodles are freshly steamed, the prawns are plump, and the sauce is balanced—not too salty or sweet." She added that the dish represents the pinnacle of Cantonese comfort food.
