In a city where Brazilian cuisine has long been synonymous with churrasco barbecue, a new Belconnen eatery is introducing Canberrans to the authentic street food flavours of South America. Awiri Castro and Leonardo de Marchi Bueno have brought the taste of their Brazilian homeland to Lake Ginninderra, offering a culinary experience far removed from the skewers and all-you-can-eat meat feasts that have dominated local perceptions.
The Heart of Brazilian Street Food
From their shop near Lake Ginninderra, the pair has introduced pastel to Canberra - a thin, blistered pastry that represents the essence of Brazilian street food culture. Pastel holds a place in Brazilian life similar to dumplings or samosas across Asia: affordable, portable, and deeply woven into daily routines.
"For me, it was Sundays," Mr Bueno recalls. "My mother would visit the street markets in Sao Paulo where every market featured a pastel store with ten or twelve different flavours. I would typically eat four or five during each visit."
Mr Castro remembers the "pastel fever" that swept Brazil during the 1990s. "Every corner had a pastelaria. They would position the wok by the window so passersby could watch the frying process and smell the pastel cooking on the street."
A Culinary Journey from Markets to Shopfront
The entrepreneurs began their venture where pastel naturally belongs: at local markets. "We recognised an opportunity in hospitality and decided, 'Let's just do pastel'," Mr Bueno explains. "Since it's fundamentally market food, we launched our business at the markets."
From these humble beginnings, they established a central kitchen space that serves multiple functions: production hub, shopfront, and base for catering and events. Their timing aligns with broader shifts in Canberra's dining habits, particularly as economic pressures change consumer behaviour.
"With the rising cost of living, people have less disposable income for restaurant dining," Mr Bueno observes. "At events like the drone show we participated in, customers can enjoy affordable options that don't strain their budgets while experiencing something different."
Chef-Driven Innovation Meets Tradition
The menu at Mr B. Pastel reflects the culinary training of both owners. "We're committed to creating something distinctive," Mr Castro emphasises. "While it's street food, we also want to cook according to our personal preferences and standards."
They've adapted traditional recipes for Australian palates while maintaining authentic elements. In Brazil, cheese pastel typically features simple mozzarella, but at their Belconnen shop, they smoke the mozzarella and blend multiple cheeses. "We're not in Brazil anymore, so we're blending cultures to create our own interpretation," Mr Bueno explains.
The dough itself carries a subtle Brazilian signature through an unexpected ingredient. "We add cachaca, the sugarcane liquor," he reveals. "This causes the pastel to bubble during frying and creates that unique texture. It's neither puff pastry nor ordinary fried dough - it's something entirely distinctive."
Building Bridges Through Familiar Flavours
Alongside their pastels, the pair has developed approachable dishes that help introduce customers to Brazilian flavours. Their menu includes sausage rolls, pulled pork sandwiches, and cheese bread rolls that provide familiar entry points before customers venture into more authentic offerings.
"We've noticed a consistent pattern," Mr Bueno shares. "Customers initially try a sandwich, then return for another. After several visits, they feel comfortable enough to sample the pastel. It's about gradually building trust and familiarity."
Their pulled pork deliberately diverges from the sweet versions common in Australia, instead offering a sour and savoury profile that has already developed a loyal following. Similarly, their Minas sausage represents a regional Brazilian product unavailable in standard supermarkets.
Showcasing Brazil's Culinary Diversity
One of the most significant misconceptions the owners hope to address is the notion that Brazilian food is monolithic. "Peruvian cuisine enjoys global recognition for its diversity, and I believe Brazilian food deserves similar appreciation," Mr Bueno asserts. "We're an enormous country where every state features different produce and distinctive dishes."
Currently, they're focusing on everyday dishes from Brazil's south-east region, including rice and beans bowls with various proteins. However, they plan to expand their offerings to represent other areas of Brazil.
"We intend to introduce dishes from other regions, such as moqueca from northern Brazil - a fish stew with capsicum and coconut milk," Mr Castro explains. "We'll feature specials that allow people to experience more Brazilian cuisine beyond barbecue."
They're also considering barbecue skewers with cassava flour - the kind of street snack Brazilians enjoy while heading to soccer matches.
Sweet Traditions with Childhood Memories
The dessert cabinet tells its own story of Brazilian culinary heritage, featuring brigadeiro truffles, carrot cake, and coconut cake wrapped in foil. Brigadeiro, made from condensed milk, butter, and chocolate, holds particular significance in Brazilian culture.
"In Brazil, brigadeiro is primarily for children at birthday parties," Mr Bueno describes. "The cake sits in the centre surrounded by all the truffles. We offer multiple flavours, and they're exceptionally creamy - quite different from regular chocolate."
"For every Brazilian, brigadeiro evokes childhood memories," Mr Castro adds. "You endure the 'Happy Birthday' song just to reach those truffles."
The coconut cake, soaked in coconut milk and individually wrapped, creates similar nostalgic connections. "It appears simple but possesses exceptional moisture and unique character," Mr Castro notes.
In a city where Brazilian food has traditionally meant barbecued meat, Mr B. Pastel offers a genuine glimpse into everyday Brazilian cuisine: crackling pastry bubbled with cachaca, filled with cheese or seasoned beef, followed by coconut-soaked cake pulled from its foil wrapping.
Mr B. Pastel operates from C16/2 Grazier Lane in Belconnen, bringing authentic Brazilian street food flavours to Canberra's culinary landscape.
