Anissa Helou, a renowned Lebanese cookbook author, shares two traditional grain dishes from her upcoming book "Lebanon: A Culinary Celebration." Grains are a cornerstone of Lebanese cooking, second only to bread, and bulgur wheat is particularly favored in rural communities. These recipes highlight the versatility of grains in Lebanese cuisine, from savory to sweet.
Green Bulgur Wheat 'Risotto' (Mafrükeh)
This dish originates from Deir Intar in southern Lebanon, where bulgur wheat is often cooked with greens and tomato sauce. It is served like tabbüleh—a cooked version—and traditionally scooped up with raw cabbage leaves or fresh vine leaves when in season. The combination of spring onions and herbs gives it a fresh, intriguing flavor.
To prepare, soak 250g coarse bulgur wheat in cold water for 30 minutes. In a wide pot, heat 80ml extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat. Drain the bulgur and stir it in the oil for a couple of minutes. Add one bunch of sliced spring onions (about 100g), one large bunch of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (about 200g), and ¾ bunch of finely chopped fresh mint (about 150g on the stalk). Mix well, then add 112g tomato paste diluted in 750ml cold water and season with salt. Cover and simmer for 10–15 minutes until the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat, wrap the lid in a clean tea towel, and let it rest. Serve at room temperature with cabbage or vine leaves.
Tahini Rice Pudding (Müffata'a)
A unique Sunni specialty from Beirut, this tahini rice pudding was unknown to Helou until she researched her book "Feast." She discovered it at al-Makari, the most famous müffata'a maker in the city. The recipe yields a thick, rich pudding with a distinctive tahini flavor.
Start by bringing 875ml water with 1 tbsp ground turmeric to a boil. Rinse 250g short-grain white rice and soak for 30 minutes, then drain and add to the boiling water. Reduce heat to low, partly cover, and simmer for 30–45 minutes, stirring regularly. In a separate pot large enough to hold all the rice, combine 250g tahini, 500g baker's or superfine sugar, and 75g Mediterranean pine nuts. When the rice is cooked, add it along with any remaining liquid, plus a pinch each of ground fennel and ground anise. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, for about an hour until the oil rises and the pudding is very thick—test by dipping a spatula; no rice should drop back. Spread on a large platter or individual plates, mark a groove around the inside, and serve at room temperature.
These recipes are edited extracts from "Lebanon: A Culinary Celebration" by Anissa Helou, published in August by Bloomsbury at £30.
