In the early morning light, the rhythmic sound of brooms sweeps across the ancient city of Khiva, stirring dust from the Kyzyl Kum Desert into golden shafts of sunlight. The air is filled with the sing-song chatter of locals speaking Uzbek, echoing through the remote, medieval walled city in the heart of Central Asia.
Khiva dates back to the sixth century, with its earliest inhabitants from nearby Iran. Over time, Turkic speakers became the majority, and Islam replaced Zoroastrianism, largely due to tax relief offered by the ruling Khan in the seventh century. The city has been destroyed ten times, including by Genghis Khan's army and Uzbek ruler Emir Temur. In 1873, Russian forces seized it, and it later became part of the Soviet Union in 1924. Uzbekistan gained independence in 1991, but UNESCO had already listed Khiva's inner town, Itchan Kala, a year earlier.
Itchan Kala, protected by brick walls up to 10 meters high, was the last resting place for caravans before crossing the desert to Iran. The walls date from the 10th century, with present-day faces and crenellations from the late 17th century. The inner town contains over 50 historic monuments, more than 200 homes, and 3,000 residents. Visitors can watch locals mixing mud and straw by hand to build walls, just as they have for centuries.
Khiva's landmarks include the unfinished minaret, where construction stopped at 26 meters after an official saw into the Khan's harem. The city also boasts Uzbekistan's tallest minaret, banded with patterns. The old citadel features three courtyards and a harem where girls were brought from as young as eight and expelled at 18, often due to unpaid taxes. The Djuma mosque, rebuilt in 1788, is dominated by 200 carved timber columns.
Daytime summer temperatures can reach 48°C in the shade, while winter brings lows of -30°C. Market stalls sell thick wool socks and fur hats, reminders of the harsh winters. Outside the walls, in the outer town of Dichan Kala, everyday shops offer ordinary goods like deodorant and toothpaste, a welcome break from souvenir stalls. Inside the walls, tourism thrives, with many European visitors. Uzbekistan, though Muslim, maintains a secular and tolerant culture, where hospitality is highly valued.
