Enchanted by a chateau that seems to float upon the water, visitors to the Loire Valley discover the remarkable Chateau de Chenonceau. At first glance, its grand gallery might resemble other European stately rooms, but this space holds secrets that make it truly extraordinary.
A Gallery Spanning History and a River
Walking across the checkerboard floor of this 60-metre-long gallery, one immediately notices the windows on either side framing views of the River Cher, a tributary of the Loire. This architectural marvel was originally conceived as a bridge before being transformed into an enclosed two-storey gallery during the Renaissance era.
Wartime Sanctuary and Strategic Crossing
The chateau's unique position made it crucial during both World Wars. In World War I, it served as a hospital for wounded soldiers. During World War II, its role became even more significant as scores of refugees, including many Jewish families, were smuggled across the gallery to relative safety on the opposite bank.
From June 1940 to November 1942, the River Cher marked the demarcation line between Nazi-occupied northern France and the collaborationist Vichy government's "free zone." By 1943, all of France had fallen under Nazi rule, making these wartime stories among the most compelling narratives shared at this historic site.
The Ladies' Chateau: A Legacy of Female Influence
Not for nothing has Chenonceau earned the nickname "Chateau des Dames" (Ladies' Chateau). Construction began in the early 16th century under noblewoman Katherine Briconnet, wife of politician Thomas Bohier. Family debts later transferred ownership to French royalty, where King Henry II gifted the estate to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers.
Diane installed the original river-spanning bridge, which was later extended and modified by Henry's wife, Catherine de' Medici. After the king's death, Catherine made Chenonceau her royal residence, introducing elements of her Italian heritage throughout the estate, including the geometric gardens that now bear her name.
Enlightenment Era and Modern Stewardship
During the 1700s, the chateau became home to Madame Dupin, daughter of King Louis XIV's banker. A key figure in the Age of Enlightenment, she hosted literary salons welcoming celebrated thinkers like Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau.
Despite escaping major damage during the French Revolution, the chateau underwent 19th-century refurbishments under Marguerite Pelouze, daughter of a Scottish entrepreneur who made his fortune installing gas lighting in Paris. Since 1913, the Menier family, French chocolate makers, have owned and revitalized the estate.
Exploring the Estate Today
For independent visitors, the chateau is conveniently accessible by train, just 30 minutes from Tours, with Chenonceaux village's railway station located near the estate's tree-lined avenue. Hours can be spent exploring not only the gallery but also lavishly furnished, art-filled rooms enhanced by informative audio commentary.
The wider estate offers numerous attractions including kitchen and wildflower gardens, a plant maze, and a restaurant housed in former royal stables. The gallery itself provides access to the tree-shaded left bank of the Cher, where medieval fortresses once controlled river traffic.
A Living Historical Landscape
Today, visitors can observe the peaceful river scene where German soldiers once patrolled during WWII. Couples now float in canoes, paddling through the chateau's arches and stopping for snacks on tree-tufted islets flecking the river.
The aromatic gardens, particularly the fountain-blessed Catherine de' Medici Garden and the larger, topiary-studded Diane de Poitiers Garden, create a sensory experience just steps from the chateau walls. Each season brings new dimensions to this UNESCO-listed attraction that continues to captivate visitors with its unique blend of architectural wonder, historical significance, and natural beauty.
