Argentina's Ansenuza National Park: A Hidden Gem of South American Wetlands
Nestled in the heart of Argentina, the Ansenuza National Park stands as one of the country's newest and least-known nature reserves. Officially inscribed in June 2022, this vast protected area is centered around Mar Chiquita Lake, the largest salt lake in South America and the fifth-largest in the world. Spanning a significant portion of north-eastern Cordoba Province, the park offers a breathtaking landscape that resembles an inland sea, with its saline waters fluctuating dramatically based on rainfall and the flow of the Rio Dulce.
A Sanctuary for Wildlife
The park's biodiversity is truly remarkable, making it a critical addition to Argentina's great wetland ecosystems, such as Ibera in Corrientes Province. Ansenuza is home to three of the four flamingo species found in South America, with their pink hues creating a stunning spectacle at sunrise and sunset as they feed in the shallow waters. Beyond these iconic birds, the marshes and coastal grasslands shelter over 300 species of birds, along with mammals like grey foxes and capybaras. In dry years, the shoreline retreats to expose wide salt flats and mudbanks, where birds gather in enormous numbers during their migrations, offering a prime opportunity for wildlife observation.
Exploring the Park
Despite its vast size, most visitors access Ansenuza from two small lakeside gateways in the southern area: La Para, slightly to the east, and Miramar, a former resort town that was relocated to higher ground after severe floods in 1977 and 1986. La Para provides the easiest access to the wetlands and birdlife, with the Reserva Municipal Bahia de Ansenuza offering interpretative trails on elevated boardwalks for spotting coastal wildlife. This municipal reserve, open daily from 7am to 11pm, features an interpretative centre called Terraza Ansenuza, which includes exhibits, a cafe with an alfresco patio, and an observation platform overlooking the wetlands. Additionally, there is space for motorhomes and a campsite in a woodland by the laguna, allowing visitors to spend a quiet night surrounded by nature.
For those interested in paleontology, La Para is also home to the unique Parque Pleistocenico La Para Megafauna de la Ansenuza, featuring life-size fibreglass statues of pampean megafauna, such as megatherium and sabretooth tigers.
Water-Based Adventures
While La Para is ideal for shore-based exploration, the town of Miramar, located 25km to the west, offers the best opportunities to experience the vast scale of Mar Chiquita Lake from the water. Boat operators like El Barco Pirata, run by Franco Michelluti, provide narrated trips in Spanish, allowing visitors to glide across the endless horizon, observe birds in flight, and view the ruins of old Miramar, including the eerie Gran Hotel Viena built by German immigrants. These one-hour excursions include a fun photo session with pirate gear, adding a touch of adventure to the experience.
Planning Your Visit
The best time to visit Ansenuza National Park is between October and March, when warmer weather brings the wetlands to life and migrating birds are most active. However, it's important to note that tourism infrastructure remains limited, even with national park status, due to the enormous size of Laguna Mar Chiquita. Visitors are advised to bring binoculars for optimal wildlife viewing, as the shallow coastal waters are often far from access roads. With its rich biodiversity and serene landscapes, Ansenuza National Park is a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts seeking to discover one of Argentina's hidden treasures.
